Sub-Assemblies & Greeblies

The scope rail, scope pod, M38 tube, Hengstler counter, T-track, magazine, and folding stock — the defining E-11 visual elements at machinist depth

(Generated by build/inject_toc.py at build time. Section headers below are the source of truth.)

This is the volume that turns a Sterling SMG into an E-11. The Sterling provides the receiver, the fire-control housing, the magazine, and the folding stock — Vol 3 covers what Sterling is. The greeblies are what’s bolted on top: the scope rail, the scope pod, the M38 grenade-launcher tube, the contested Hengstler counter, and (for Sandtrooper builds only) the T-track and ammo pouch. This volume documents each one at sub-assembly depth — what it looks like on hero pieces, what its dimensions are per the RPF community consensus, how it mounts to the receiver, and how to fabricate or source it for each build path.

The treatment of each greeblie covers four things:

What it is on the screen prop — appearance on hero pieces, per-piece variation, RPF dimensions.
How it mounts on the prop — physical interface with the Sterling receiver, fasteners, position tolerance.
Fabrication path — for Path C builders, how to make it from scratch.
Sourcing options — for Path A / Path B builders, what to buy and from whom.

7.1 The greeblie catalog at a glance

#	Greeblie	Position	On every E-11?	Build difficulty
7.2	Scope rail	Top of receiver, longitudinal	Yes	Easy — CNC bar
7.3	Scope pod	On scope rail, top-centered	Yes	Medium — CNC turn or SLA print
7.4	M38 grenade-launcher tube	Parallel to scope rail	Yes	Medium — CNC turn or 3D print
7.5	Hengstler counter	Top of receiver, behind scope pod	Contested — present on some hero pieces	Medium — SLA print
7.6	T-track + ammo pouch	Underslung along magazine well	Sandtrooper only	Easy (T-track) + sewing (pouch)
7.7	34-rd curved magazine	Magazine well, left side	Yes	Easy (source) / Hard (fabricate)
7.8	Folding wire stock	Left side of receiver	Yes (factory Sterling)	Easy (factory) / Hard (bend from rod)

7.2 The scope rail

The scope rail is the flat steel bar running along the top of the receiver that carries the scope pod. It is the single most-recognizable E-11 element — without the rail, the prop reads as a Sterling SMG, not an E-11.

7.2.1 Appearance

Flat bar, approximately rectangular cross-section.
Spans most of the receiver length, running longitudinally along the top.
Two or three mounting holes for screws into the receiver-top studs.
Provides mounting features for the scope pod (typically two screw holes in the rail’s top surface).

7.2.2 Dimensions (RPF consensus)

Measurement	Value
Length	~150 mm (6″)
Width	~25 mm (1″)
Thickness	~5 mm
Mounting hole 1 (rear)	~25 mm from rear end
Mounting hole 2 (front)	~25 mm from front end
Scope pod mounting holes	Centered on rail, ~80 mm apart

The rail position on the receiver: centered longitudinally along the top of the receiver tube, with the rear edge approximately ~25 mm forward of the receiver’s rear end.

7.2.3 Mounting

The scope rail bolts to the top of the receiver via two or three mounting screws (typically M5 or 10-32 depending on the build’s hardware standard). The receiver-top mounting features:

On a real Sterling (Path A1 / A2 / A3): drill and tap two new mounting holes through the top of the receiver tube. Tap to receiver wall thickness (~2 mm); deep enough to engage 3–4 thread pitches.
On a Doopydoo kit (Path B1): the kit typically includes the rail and pre-drilled mounting points.
On an airsoft Sterling (Path B3): drill into the pot-metal or plastic receiver; use thread-forming inserts if the substrate doesn’t hold a tap.
On a from-scratch receiver (Path C): drill the mounting holes during the receiver-tube finishing pass, before final finish (§ 6.2.5).

Position tolerance: ±1 mm in the longitudinal mounting-hole positions. The rail will sit slightly off-center if the holes are not co-located on the receiver’s axis; minor visual issue only.

7.2.4 Fabrication (Path C)

For from-scratch builds, the scope rail is the easiest greeblie:

Stock: 6061 aluminum bar, ~6 mm × 25 mm × 200 mm.
Op 1: cut to length (150 mm).
Op 2: drill receiver-mounting holes (two, ~25 mm from each end).
Op 3: drill scope-pod mounting holes (two, centered, ~80 mm apart).
Op 4: surface finish — light tumble or media blast to a uniform matte finish.
Op 5: parkerize or Cerakote with the rest of the build.

Time: ~30–60 minutes on a CNC mill with appropriate fixturing.

7.2.5 Sourcing (Paths A / B)

Doopydoo kits — include the scope rail.
Wise Lite Sterling clones (Path A1) — sometimes ship with E-11 conversion kits including the rail.
Aftermarket / community vendors — small UK and US prop-makers sell scope rails separately ($20–60 USD).
Self-fabricate — CNC mill from aluminum bar as in § 7.2.4.

7.3 The scope pod

The scope pod is the stylized cylindrical pod sitting atop the scope rail, the visual centerpiece of the E-11. It is what reads as “futuristic optical sight” on screen — though, like everything else on the prop, it is purely cosmetic.

7.3.1 Appearance

Cylindrical body with end-caps.
The front end has a simulated objective lens (often a recessed dark disc or a colored “lens” insert).
The rear end has a simulated eyepiece (similarly recessed).
Side ridges or grooves running circumferentially around the body (per-piece variation; some hero pieces have prominent ridges, others are smoother).
Mounting feature on the underside that mates with the scope rail.

7.3.2 Dimensions (RPF consensus)

Measurement	Value
Length (overall)	~90 mm (3.5″)
Body OD	~32 mm (1.25″)
Body wall (if hollow)	~3 mm
End-cap OD	~38 mm (1.5″)
End-cap thickness	~5 mm
Front “lens” diameter	~20 mm
Rear “eyepiece” diameter	~15 mm

7.3.3 Mounting

The pod mounts to the scope rail via two screws on the underside, into the scope-rail mounting holes (Vol 7 § 7.2.2). The pod’s underside has a flat mating surface (cut into the cylindrical body) that sits flush on the rail.

Some hero pieces show a slight gap between the pod underside and the rail — likely a result of the mating surface not being perfectly flush. Cosmetic only.

7.3.4 Fabrication (Path C)

Two paths:

Path A — CNC turn from aluminum stock. The hero pieces are believed to have been CNC-turned from solid aluminum stock. Stock: 6061 aluminum round, ~40 mm OD × 100 mm. Op 1: turn the body OD to ~32 mm. Op 2: turn the end-caps to ~38 mm OD, leaving the body sections between them. Op 3: face the ends to length. Op 4: drill / counterbore the simulated lens and eyepiece recesses. Op 5: drill the underside mounting holes. Op 6: optional — turn circumferential ridges into the body (per per-piece variation). Op 7: surface finish.

Time: ~3–6 hours of lathe work.

Path B — SLA / resin print. For a non-firing prop, an SLA-printed pod is acceptable and faster. Print at 50 μm layer height for smooth surface finish. Print the body solid or hollow (hollow saves resin and weight). Glue end-caps if printed separately. Sand to remove layer lines. Prime + paint to match.

Time: ~30 minutes print + ~2 hours finishing.

7.3.5 Sourcing (Paths A / B)

Doopydoo kits — include the scope pod, dimensioned correctly.
Wise Lite E-11 conversion kits — when available.
Aftermarket / community vendors — small prop-makers sell scope pods separately ($30–80 USD).
Community 3D-print files — RPF / Printables / Cults3D have several free or paid scope-pod files.

7.4 The M38 grenade-launcher tube

The M38 tube is the cylindrical tube running parallel to the scope rail, the second-most-identifying E-11 element. The donor is contested in the RPF community; some sources identify it as a US M38 grenade-launcher tube, others identify it as a generic cylindrical part Bapty had on hand. The screen prop reads the same regardless of provenance.

7.4.1 Appearance

Long cylindrical tube, smaller diameter than the scope pod.
Open at both ends (the simulated grenade-launcher exit).
Often shows a small adjustment knob or sight feature on one side.
May have a stop ring or band around its circumference (per-piece variable).

7.4.2 Dimensions (RPF consensus)

Measurement	Value
Length	~125 mm (5″)
OD	~25 mm (1″)
Wall (if hollow)	~2 mm
Mounting position	Parallel to scope rail; on most hero pieces, the M38 sits above the rail; on some pieces, alongside

Mounting position on the receiver: per-piece variable. Most ANH hero pieces show the M38 mounted above the scope rail; some ESB / ROTJ pieces show it alongside. Vol 2 § 2.5 references this variation.

7.4.3 Mounting

The M38 mounts to the scope rail via two clamps or brackets that wrap the M38 body and bolt to the rail. The clamp brackets are typically thin steel or aluminum, formed to match the M38’s OD.

For a Path C build, the clamps are easy to laser-cut from sheet steel and bend over the M38 body.

7.4.4 Fabrication (Path C)

Path A — CNC turn from aluminum stock. Stock: 6061 aluminum round, ~30 mm OD × 150 mm. Op 1: turn the OD to ~25 mm. Op 2: face the ends to length (125 mm). Op 3: counterbore the ends to create the simulated grenade-launcher exit. Op 4: optional — turn an adjustment knob feature on one side. Op 5: surface finish.

Time: ~1–2 hours of lathe work.

Path B — 3D print. FDM in PLA or PETG is acceptable for the M38. Print as a hollow cylinder; close the ends with separately-printed caps if desired (or leave open). Sand and prime + paint.

Time: ~1 hour print + ~30 minutes finishing.

7.4.5 Sourcing (Paths A / B)

Real M38 grenade-launcher tube — occasionally appears on militaria sites ($40–150 USD). Confirmed-period-correct for the contested-donor hypothesis.
Doopydoo kits — include the M38 tube.
Wise Lite E-11 conversion kits — when available.
Community 3D-print files — multiple free files available.

7.5 The Hengstler counter — settling the contested question

The Hengstler-style mechanical counter is the single most-debated E-11 detail. The community’s consensus is:

Some 1976 Bapty hero pieces clearly show the counter in A New Hope footage — prominent rectangular housing on top of the receiver, behind the scope pod, with a small visible numeric counter face.
Other hero pieces show no counter — either the counter was painted over, or it was never installed on that piece.
Most ESB and ROTJ hero pieces show no visible counter — either the counter was painted over by the later production, or the prop pool included pieces without it.
501st CRL spec does not require the counter for any Stormtrooper / Sandtrooper / Death Star Trooper build.

7.5.1 Appearance (when present)

Rectangular housing, approximately the size of a matchbox.
Sits on top of the receiver, behind the scope pod.
Has a small numeric counter face — usually a 4- or 6-digit mechanical wheel-style counter (like an odometer).
May have visible reset features or hand-crank wheels on one side.

7.5.2 Dimensions (RPF consensus)

Measurement	Value
Length	~35 mm
Width	~25 mm
Height	~25 mm
Counter face dimensions	~15 mm × 8 mm rectangular
Position on receiver	Centered behind scope pod; ~40 mm behind scope pod’s rear edge

7.5.3 Mounting

Bolts to the top of the receiver behind the scope pod, via two screws or a single bracket-mount on the underside.

For Path A1 / A2 / A3 builds: drill the mounting holes through the top of the receiver. For Path B / C: drill / model in the mounting features.

7.5.4 Fabrication (Path C)

The Hengstler is fine-detail — SLA / resin printing is the right approach. Print the housing, the counter face, the reset features as a unified part or as a few sub-assemblies. The fine detail of the counter-face digits is achievable on SLA but not on FDM.

Stock: standard model resin. Print at 25 μm layer height. Post-process: support removal, IPA wash, UV cure, light sand. Prime + paint.

Time: ~30 minutes print + ~1 hour finishing.

7.5.5 Sourcing (Paths A / B)

Doopydoo kits — some include the Hengstler counter; some don’t (verify the variant ordered).
Period Hengstler counters — real vintage Hengstler counters appear on collector / surplus markets ($30–100 USD); they are slightly different from the prop dimensions but read correctly on camera.
Community 3D-print files — multiple free files available, varying in detail accuracy.

7.5.6 To include or omit

Decision framework:

501st CRL Stormtrooper / Sandtrooper / Death Star Trooper build → not required. Omitting is the lower-risk choice — many hero pieces lack the counter, and including it does not improve the CRL approval likelihood.
Hero-spec ANH Stormtrooper build → include. Some ANH hero pieces clearly show the counter; for a build targeting that specific look, the counter is right.
Hero-spec ESB / ROTJ Stormtrooper build → omit. Later-film hero pieces do not show the counter.
Personal-discretion display build → builder’s choice.

7.6 The Sandtrooper T-track + ammo pouch

The Sandtrooper variant (Vol 2 § 2.3.2) adds two features absent from the standard Stormtrooper E-11: an underslung T-track running along the magazine well, and an attached ammo pouch hanging from the T-track. Both are clearly visible on Sandtrooper hero pieces from A New Hope.

7.6.1 The T-track

Appearance: A horizontal T-section bar running along the bottom of the magazine well, anchored to the fire-control housing on both ends. The T-cross-section’s “top” runs along the bottom of the housing; the vertical web hangs below.
Material: Steel bar with T-cross-section, or built up from flat bar welded together.
Dimensions (RPF consensus): ~180 mm (7″) length, ~15 mm × 15 mm overall cross-section, web thickness ~3 mm.
Mounting: Bolts or brackets at each end, anchoring to the bottom of the fire-control housing.

7.6.2 The ammo pouch

Appearance: A small canvas / leather pouch attached to the T-track via a strap or clip. Field-service appearance — looks weathered and used.
Dimensions (RPF consensus): ~80 mm × 100 mm × 40 mm (height × width × depth).
Construction: Sewn from canvas (cotton duck) or leather; closed with a Velcro flap or button.
Color / weathering: Sand-colored or olive-drab, with dust patina applied to match the prop.

7.6.3 Fabrication

T-track (Path C):

Cut sheet steel to T-profile (laser-cut from sheet, then bent) — or weld up from flat bar.
Drill mounting holes at each end.
Bolt to the fire-control housing underside.
Time: ~1–2 hours.

Ammo pouch (Path C):

Cut canvas to pattern; sew on a sewing machine.
Attach Velcro or button closure.
Weather with tea or coffee dye + dust spray.
Time: ~2–4 hours.

7.6.4 Sourcing

Doopydoo Sandtrooper kit — includes both T-track and ammo pouch.
Aftermarket / community vendors — small UK and US prop-makers sell Sandtrooper kits ($20–50 USD).
Self-fabricate — straightforward for both pieces.

7.7 The 34-round curved Sterling magazine

The Sterling’s signature side-feed curved magazine, projecting from the left side of the fire-control housing at ~15° forward of vertical.

7.7.1 Appearance

Curved sheet-steel magazine body, 34-round capacity.
Left-side feed (the magazine projects horizontally to the gun’s left, not down like an AR-15).
Visible magazine follower window on the side (sometimes obscured by paint on prop builds).
Floor plate at the bottom.

7.7.2 Dimensions (Sterling factory spec)

Measurement	Value
Length	~228 mm (9″)
Width	~28 mm
Curve radius	~150 mm (the magazine is curved; not straight)
Floor plate dimensions	~28 mm × 18 mm
Magazine angle from vertical	~15° forward

7.7.3 Mounting

The magazine inserts into the magazine well in the fire-control housing. On a real Sterling it locks into a catch that holds it against the housing’s mating face.

For prop builds, the magazine often glues or screws into a fixed position (the magazine doesn’t need to actually insert/release — that’s a real-firearm feature). Cosmetic prop builds may use a magazine block (a fake magazine body that doesn’t function as a magazine).

7.7.4 Fabrication (Path C)

Path A — Source a real Sterling magazine. Sterling factory magazines are available from parts-kit dealers ($30–60 USD); de-internal them for prop use (remove follower and spring) and finish to match the build. This is the right path for a Path C build that wants authentic feel.

Path B — Sheet-metal fabricate. Cut side panels from sheet steel (~1.5 mm); press-form the curve; weld together. Add follower window cut-out. Form the floor plate from flat bar.

Time: ~5–10 hours.

Path C — 3D print. PETG or ABS in two halves; glue together. Acceptable for non-firing display builds.

Time: ~3–5 hours.

7.7.5 Sourcing (Paths A / B)

Real Sterling parts kits — include the magazine. Path A2 / A3 / B5 builds inherit it.
Doopydoo kits — include a cast magazine.
Aftermarket / community vendors — Sterling-pattern magazine castings or 3D-prints.

7.8 The folding wire stock

The Sterling’s factory folding stock — bent steel rod with a hinged butt-plate, folding flat against the left side of the receiver.

7.8.1 Appearance

Two-piece bent rod assembly: a long shaft and a short cross-piece forming the butt-plate.
Hinges at the front, mounted to a steel collar on the receiver.
Locks in extended and folded positions via spring detents or a manual catch.
Bent from ~10 mm round-steel rod.

7.8.2 Dimensions (Sterling factory spec)

Measurement	Value
Shaft length	~240 mm (extended)
Cross-piece width	~120 mm
Rod diameter	~10 mm
Hinge pin diameter	~5 mm
Hinge tab dimensions	~25 mm × 15 mm

7.8.3 Mounting

The stock hinges from a steel collar that wraps the front end of the receiver. On a real Sterling the collar is welded or pressed onto the receiver and includes the hinge pin features.

7.8.4 Fabrication (Path C)

Path A — Bend from rod stock. ~10 mm round-steel rod, bent over a forming jig. Bend the shaft first (one long bend at the front); weld the cross-piece to the shaft at the back. Form the hinge tabs from flat bar; weld to the front of the shaft. Drill the hinge-pin holes; assemble with the hinge pin. Drill mounting holes in the receiver collar. Spring-load the detent if a functional fold-and-lock mechanism is wanted.